Know your Jewelry
Silver is the setting. The stone is the point. Here is what each one is, and how to keep a piece looking the way it did the day it arrived.
Amethyst
Purple Quartz
Ranges from pale lilac to deep royal purple. The most prized color is a strong, even purple with flashes of red.
Hardness (Mohs scale, 1 to 10)
7 | At or above 7, it resists the fine scratches that everyday dust causes.
Birthstone month
February
Common Treatments
Usually untreated. Some stones are gently heated to lighten a very dark color.
Wearing & Care
Hard enough for any type of jewelry. Keep it out of long, strong sunlight, which can slowly fade the color.
Citrine
Yellow to amber quartz
A warm stone running from lemon yellow to deep honey. Clean, bright stones with no brown tint are the most valued.
Hardness (Mohs scale, 1 to 10)
7 | At or above 7, it resists the fine scratches that everyday dust causes.
Birthstone month
November
Common Treatments
Most citrine sold today is amethyst or smoky quartz that has been heated to turn it golden. The result is stable.
Wearing & Care
Durable and easy to wear daily. Avoid sudden temperature changes and long exposure to strong heat.
Garnet
A family of related minerals
Best known in deep wine red, though the garnet family also includes orange and green varieties.
Hardness (Mohs scale, 1 to 10)
6.5 to 7.5 | At or above 7, it resists the fine scratches that everyday dust causes.
Birthstone month
January
Common Treatments
Rarely treated. What you see is almost always the stone's own color.
Wearing & Care
Good for al jewelry. Ring stones can show wear on the facet edges over the years, so store them apart from harder gems.
Peridot
Gem-quality olivine
One of the few gemstones that comes in a single color: a fresh yellow-green, sometimes leaning toward olive.
Hardness (Mohs scale, 1 to 10)
6.5 to 7.5 | At or above 7, it resists the fine scratches that everyday dust causes.
Birthstone month
August
Common Treatments
Usualy untreated.
Wearing & Care
Best in earrings and necklaces, or in rings worn with some care. Sensitive to acids and sudden heat, so clean with soap and water only.
Blue Topaz
Topaz
Sold in shades from pale sky blue to a deep, inky London blue. Typically very clean and bright.
Hardness (Mohs scale, 1 to 10)
8 | At or above 7, it resists the fine scratches that everyday dust causes.
Birthstone month
December
Common Treatments
Almost al blue topaz starts as colorless topaz and is irradiated, then heated, to turn it blue. The color is permanent.
Wearing & Care
Very scratch resistant, but a sharp knock at the wrong angle can split it. Avoid steam and ultrasonic cleaners.
Moonstone
Feldspar
Known for a soft blue or white glow that seems to float across the surface as the stone moves.
Hardness (Mohs scale, 1 to 10)
6 to 6.5 | At or above 7, it resists the fine scratches that everyday dust causes.
Birthstone month
June
Common Treatments
Usualy untreated.
Wearing & Care
On the softer side and can chip. Happiest in earrings and necklaces. Wipe with a damp cloth; no ultrasonic or steam cleaning.
Rose quartz
Pink quartz
A soft, milky pink. A slightly cloudy look is natural to this stone and is part of its character.
Hardness (Mohs scale, 1 to 10)
7 | At or above 7, it resists the fine scratches that everyday dust causes.
Birthstone month
Not a traditional birthstone
Common Treatments
Usualy untreated.
Wearing & Care
Durable for daily wear. Prolonged strong sunlight can fade the pink in some stones.
What makes a good stone
Colored gemstones are judged on four things. Unlike diamonds, color carries most of the weight.
Color
The first thing to judge
The first thing to judgLook for a hue that is rich and even across the stone, neither so pale it looks washed out nor so dark it turns black indoors.e
Clarity
What is inside
Most natural stones carry small internal marks called inclusions. They are a sign of origin, and only a problem when they dull the stone or reach the surface.
Cut
How it handles light
A well-cut stone returns light evenly, with no dead, seethrough patch in the middle. Smooth domed stones, called cabochons, are cut for glow instead of sparkle.
Carat
Weight, not size
One carat is 0.2 grams. Stones differ in density, so two gems of the same carat weight can look different in size. Measurements in millimeters tell you more.
Frequently asked questions
Will my silver tarnish?
All sterling silver tarnishes eventually. How fast depends on humidity, skin chemistry and how it is stored. It is a surface change, it comes off with a polishing cloth, and it does not mean the silver is fake.
Why did my skin turn green or dark under a ring?
It is a harmless reaction between the copper in sterling silver, moisture and your skin, more likely in humid weather or with lotion underneath. It washes off. Keeping the ring and your skin dry usually stops it.
Why do two stones of the same kind look different?
Natural gemstones vary in shade, pattern and inclusions from one stone to the next. Two amethysts from the same parcel can sit a tone apart. The piece you receive may differ slightly from the photograph for this reason.
How do I know a stone has been treated?
You usually cannot tell by eye. Ask the seller. In the US, sellers are expected to disclose treatments that are not permanent, that need special care, or that affect a stone's value.
Which stones are best for every day?
For rings and bracelets, which take the most knocks, stones at 7 or above on the Mohs scale hold up best. Softer stones such as moonstone and peridot do well in earrings and necklaces, where they are rarely bumped.
Can a piece be resized or repaired later?
Most plain silver ring bands can be resized by a jeweler. Rings with stones set all the way around usually cannot. Chains, clasps and loose prongs are routine repairs.